Prairie Moon

1502 Sherman

Molcajete steak. Photo by the author.

When one hears the phrase “American eclectic” — the words used by Prairie Moon to describe its cuisine — the interior of an Applebee’s or T.G.I. Friday’s springs to mind: walls covered in toboggans, photos of Elvis and Marilyn Monroe, and perhaps a catcher’s mitt or old-school ice skates hanging above the door frame. Prairie Moon take this concept further: rather than simply appearing Prairie Moon succeeds in truly tasting American.

Located at 1502 Sherman Ave., Prairie Moon consists of three dining rooms, a patio and two bars. Its high ceilings create an airy atmosphere that’s either liberating or gives the feeling of dining in a ski lodge cafeteria. But Prairie Moon is really less about what is on the walls than what is on the plates.

True to the good ol’ American spirit, Prairie Moon dishes it hard and fast, not to mention big. Not ten minutes after placing our order, the appetizers arrived. The jumbo wings and coco-panko shrimp (coconut and panko-breaded Gulf shrimp) we ordered are staples of the American dining experience and are hard items to mess up. If you can’t get that right, you can’t call yourself an American restaurant. Prairie Moon executes both very well. The shrimp was as good as any I’ve tasted, while the wings were almost too large for their own good, but nonetheless delicious (although one that was shaped like a hockey puck did not get eaten). But the food just kept on coming.

Booker steak. Photo by the author.

Having barely touched the wings, we were presented with the entrées: “Molcajete” steak with salsa, guacamole and roasted garlic mashed potatoes, and a grilled sliced sirloin “Booker” steak with bourbon peppercorn sauce, garlic mashed and fried shallots. Getting your food too soon, rather than too late, is nothing to complain about but the speed of the Prairie Moon kitchen almost does itself a disservice — it could be considered fast food considering the rate at which the food arrived.

The Booker steak was of particular note. Priced at $9.95, it seemed too good to be true. The combination of creamy sauce, shallots and juicy steak had to come with an asterisk. But unless I succumb to mad cow disease 20 years down the road, it was a great deal. Compared to cafeteria steak (which should be an oxymoron), Prairie Moon’s cuts are up there with Evanston’s best (watch out, Pete Miller). The Molcajete steak could have done with a little more seasoning, but leftover BBQ sauce from the wings saved the day.

Jumbo wings. Photo by the author.

Almost every item on the menu at Prairie moon is recognizable – that is to say you probably won’t find anything you’ve never tried or much less can’t pronounce – but it is what’s done to the classic American foods that make them “eclectic.” Look at their menu and you will see each item description is spattered with specifics and adjectives enough to impress an English teacher (not to mention an amateur gourmand) while not coming off as pretentious or extraneously descriptive. You don’t find Prairie Moon’s eclecticism on the walls, but rather in the meals the serve.

Prairie Moon couples fast service with great food without blowing a hole in your wallet. Think Dixie Kitchen with better food and a wider, more diverse menu. The eclectic nature of Prairie Moon is neither forced nor random. It is a focused effort in providing diners what they love in a number of different ways. From menu to atmosphere to service, Prairie Moon distinguishes itself as different, yet all encompassing.